Thursday, January 9, 2020

Rat Rod Bike

Rat Rod Bike

I wanted to make a low and longer bike, so here it is in it's unfinished state.
This what it looks like just after welding the two halves together.
Rear half was from a 24" frame while the front half is from a 26" frame.
It was a "challenge" to get the 26" rear rim+tire to fit into the frame.
Changed the front rim+tire after this photo to get the front brakes working.
The pedals do scrape when turning a corner.
Also, the left pedal (when at the bottom) acts as a kick-stand.
I will change the handlebars out for taller ones, later.

















Here is a picture taken today, 2020/1/9 Thursday.
Raised the seat, added chain tensioner, fixed the head tube bearings.
Added reflectors (necessary here in AZ).
Note the pedal acting as a kick-stand.
I would like to install a larger rear tire but there is no room.

















This is the chain tensioner.
Coaster brake arm, bent, drilled to accept a derailleur star.


























More changes, 2020/1/10.
Different bars, abbreviated fenders.
Splash of red paint (rust cover), bottle cage, mirror.




















Update: 2020/1/16
As Will Ward (facebuuk/Rat Rod Bikes) suggested:
I cut the arms free from an old crank.
Easy when you have hacksaw blades that still work.
Here is what's left with a 32 chainring.



























Here is that "idler" installed with a 38 chainring.
Reason: Currently I cannot move the rear rim for chain tensioning.
This will change when the rear dropouts are replaced.
Now there is absolutely no chain noise, wonderful!






























Update 2020/JAN/17:
Trying rear dropouts before welding.
Changed rear tire for the one that matches the front tire.
Tires are the WallyWorld Attachi-Kujo's at less than $12US each, but not rubber.
Lengthened the chain, again.
The idler chain ring will be the smallest that can be found, probably a 28 or so.
Here it shows the tire clearance to the frame, finally!
Here the chain looks mis-aligned, it's just an optical illusion.



























Here a closer shot of the dropouts temporarily installed.
Before welding, they will be swung down from the front bolt, until the slots are horizontal.
Bike was ridden like this to make sure that all worked as desired.




























Found, from a junked bicycle.
























Update: 2020/JAN/18:
Re-positioned the rear dropouts.
Now for that welding in.



























Changed that cheap mirror clamp for a seat post clamp (drilled 11/32 inch)
New mirror clamp.



























Yup, no more moving!





























More Pix:
Two Beer Holders.























































The Propeller:





























IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed.