Thursday, January 9, 2020

Rat Rod Bike

Rat Rod Bike

I wanted to make a low and longer bike, so here it is in it's unfinished state.
This what it looks like just after welding the two halves together.
Rear half was from a 24" frame while the front half is from a 26" frame.
It was a "challenge" to get the 26" rear rim+tire to fit into the frame.
Changed the front rim+tire after this photo to get the front brakes working.
The pedals do scrape when turning a corner.
Also, the left pedal (when at the bottom) acts as a kick-stand.
I will change the handlebars out for taller ones, later.

















Here is a picture taken today, 2020/1/9 Thursday.
Raised the seat, added chain tensioner, fixed the head tube bearings.
Added reflectors (necessary here in AZ).
Note the pedal acting as a kick-stand.
I would like to install a larger rear tire but there is no room.

















This is the chain tensioner.
Coaster brake arm, bent, drilled to accept a derailleur star.


























More changes, 2020/1/10.
Different bars, abbreviated fenders.
Splash of red paint (rust cover), bottle cage, mirror.




















Update: 2020/1/16
As Will Ward (facebuuk/Rat Rod Bikes) suggested:
I cut the arms free from an old crank.
Easy when you have hacksaw blades that still work.
Here is what's left with a 32 chainring.



























Here is that "idler" installed with a 38 chainring.
Reason: Currently I cannot move the rear rim for chain tensioning.
This will change when the rear dropouts are replaced.
Now there is absolutely no chain noise, wonderful!






























Update 2020/JAN/17:
Trying rear dropouts before welding.
Changed rear tire for the one that matches the front tire.
Tires are the WallyWorld Attachi-Kujo's at less than $12US each, but not rubber.
Lengthened the chain, again.
The idler chain ring will be the smallest that can be found, probably a 28 or so.
Here it shows the tire clearance to the frame, finally!
Here the chain looks mis-aligned, it's just an optical illusion.



























Here a closer shot of the dropouts temporarily installed.
Before welding, they will be swung down from the front bolt, until the slots are horizontal.
Bike was ridden like this to make sure that all worked as desired.




























Found, from a junked bicycle.
























Update: 2020/JAN/18:
Re-positioned the rear dropouts.
Now for that welding in.



























Changed that cheap mirror clamp for a seat post clamp (drilled 11/32 inch)
New mirror clamp.



























Yup, no more moving!





























More Pix:
Two Beer Holders.























































The Propeller:





























IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed.

Thursday, November 28, 2019

Leftover Parts

Latest as a collection of parts, kind of like a track bike.



Front: 700Cx23
Rear: 26x2 Attachi Kujo Tire, rim with BMX gear.
Bars: Kiddie
Brakes: Front, custom. Rear, none.
Crank: Rebuilt, 45 angle arms, square.






















IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed


Friday, February 2, 2018

Schwinn FFA

Update: Feb/6/2018



I purchased two bikes today.
A Western Flyer cruiser.

Schwinn World Tourist.
This is the one with the FFA system, solid rear cogs with a freewheel crank.


Western Flyer

The rear hub was extremely stiff and ALL of the spokes were loose.
That rear hub was disassembled and serviced. The lacing of both wheels did not go two over and one under. The one that was supposed to be under was actually over, why? Besides that the rear lacing is 4x. After tightening both wheels, it is ready to donate.

Donated and gone.





















The Schwinn World Tourist


By scouring the bike forums this seems to be a low-end bike without any hope of parts. Apparently the cables are custom also. This means that if it were to be brought up to today's standards would require new wheels and crank along with proper shifters and derailleurs. Yes, cables too. Not worth it at this time.

The rear cogs are solid and do not freewheel. The freewheel is in the crank. That means that the chain is moving all of the time. I guess that makes this bike easier to shift. The front and rear both have guards to keep the chain on it's proper chain_wheel or cog.



Update: Feb/6/2018

The tires are toast, too bad, 27 x 1-1/8 inch.
Hopefully a bit larger width tire can be found.

--- Done.
--- Tires replaced with 27 x 1-1/4 and my pump can only go to 70lbs.
--- This frame seems to be a medium frame as it's a bit short for me (6'0").
--- The seat post is 18 inches long!

--- This one is SOLD.



















Nameplate





















The crank freewheel.
Finger is included, ugh.






















IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed



Monday, January 29, 2018

Huffy Cranbrook 1x5 Speed

Update: Jan/30/2018


I have a Huffy Cranbrook Bicycle that I found at a flea market for $20 a while back.  I first changed the front fork for a suspension one with V-brakes (not shown here). Then serviced all of the bearings as most had dried up. Also added those large whitewall tires. Removed the fenders to be stored for later installation.


















Current Photo.





















Today I changed the rear wheel from coaster brake to a wheel with an old 5-speed Shimano set of freewheel cogs.  I wanted to see if the 1/8 inch chain would work on that old Shimano set of cogs. The chain stayed on the center rear cog without any clanking or noises. I do not have a rear derailleur mounted at all and that may come next. With a new chain of course.

I put on some cheesy rear brakes and took the bike for a test ride. The rear brakes were old and hard so not so good there. The front brakes work excellent.



Here is a shot of that Cranbrook with the different rear wheel after my test ride.
No whitewall, bummer, it's on the original coaster brake wheel.


























Those cheesy brakes.
The brake pads would not reach the rim with the brakes mounted on the other side of the cross piece.
Brake arms do twist a lot in the forward direction.
These brakes will get replaced soon, not sure with what.
It would be nice if V-brakes could be added to the frame.

Tire is 26x2.0 purchased used at the local bike store.




















How the chain was mounted, middle cog.
The chain lines up nicely on this cog with that large chain.
Note the absence of a rear derailleur.

The frame was spread about 1/4 inch.



























Update: Jan/30/2018

Old chainring was 44T, 2.6mm thick.
Different chainring, 40T, 2.4mm thick.
This works with a Walmart 5/6/7 3/32 inch chain.




















Used derailleur, new cable, new chain. Zip ties galore.
Chain guard now put back on.




















Cheap used shifter.




















Front fork. Brakes squeak on painted rim.






























IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed



Saturday, January 13, 2018

Magna Arizona

Update: Feb/3/2018



Here is another rebuild of left over bike parts.
A Magna frame, model is Arizona, (26-incher) with Shimano 333 rims, 27x1.25 inch or 32mm-630mm.

All bearings have been replaced or re-greased.

OK, so it's a girl frame, who cares?

As-is in the driveway. 5-speed rear, no front derailleur but using the small chainring. SIS shifter. Used 41-53mm brakes (thanks to Mike's Bike Chalet, Mesa, AZ) with my new pads. New cables of course (Bell, Walmart). Seat post is BMX.

The rear QR is not there as the QR axle was bent. I replaced the axle with a solid one using different cones and bearings.

I noticed that the front rim is off by two holes placing that air valve in the narrow space, oh well, not by me.




















Tire Size 32-630.













Shimano 333 hubs, solid axle.
Old style Shimano freewheel (20mm) oiled with 90wt.
SIS shifter.





















Front brakes, used but OK. The quick-release does nothing as the arms are already full out. Mounting did not require drilling of the front fork.


















Rear brakes. This required drilling the back side of the mount tube to clear the mounting counter-sunk nut. A spacer was also required under the nut as the nut was too long and hit the inner (other) side of the mount tube. Ignore the junk pile in the background.






















Magna Logo.  Model is Arizona, where I live.
Used pedals, oiled with 90wt.



















Update: Feb/3/2018

Added a rear carrier and a basket for my 8lb poodle to ride in.
I will put in a barrier to keep the dogs legs out of the spokes.

Also, changed the saddle for a more comfy one and
changed the pedals for re-built metal ones.
























IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed



Tuesday, January 2, 2018

Cruiser to 3-speed

I had a pile of parts left over from rebuilding bikes for the homeless.
A set of 26x1-3/8 rims and tires, a 3-speed set.
Frame that was a cruiser.
Brakes, cables, etc.

Update:
This bike has been donated to the "New Hope Community Center" to be donated to a homeless person.  On Jan/31/2018 it was gone.


Starter Bike after the conversion. It had the standard balloon rims and tires.

I added:
Old rims and tires, 3-speed stuff which includes the grip-shifter, seat, brakes with cables and levers,


















Since this bike has no cable stop for the rear 3-speed hub, I mounted an excess adjuster and clamped it permanently to the chain guard. This works great, tested by me.
After centering the "N" in the hub, all three speeds work as designed.

















Backside of that cable stop.


















Ding-ding
The original 3-speed shifter L-N-H. It works like any other grip-shifter.

















IdeZilla
Comments Welcomed